Hypoxic High: An alpine photo essay

There are parallels... The luck of finding and seizing an optimal weather day, like nabbing the Sankara Stone of Indy lore, is real gift given the fickle Rockies weather at 14,000. I had never climbed with Eric but was confident. Boulder Canyon, our first choice, was on lockdown from the Cold Springs Nederland fire so a low commitment day to see how we worked as a climbing team was not going to happen. At the base I got a text from a friend that said, "Good luck! I have been snowed off that route 3 times!"

When weather, fitness, confidence, high quality rock, good route finding (despite not bringing a topo), uber exposed climbing but relatively solid protection options and partner communication all come together it makes for a rad day. The geologic feature that the Flying Buttress ascends is standout. I have watched it in many different moments while guiding Longs Peak and it was high on the list - a precursor route to climbing the Diamond - a dream of some 20 years...

It was a real gift to get to lead every pitch of this unbelievable route first time out. I am indebted to Eric for allowing this. There is much magic in the mountains... At once humbling and rekindling inspiration.

all images ©Bennett Barthelemy July 2016

The Flying Buttress ascends the shadow and light line close to center

Solo on the "third class" approach pitches

Pitch two ascended the spire and traversed across the 5.9 face to belay at two 1/4 star drive museum piece bolts